Nuit de Bakélite

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All about this fragrance

Vibe check

An after-dark presence with the tension of cut stems rather than the softness of a floral bouquet. Its near-black greenery and leather suit an unhurried conversation in close company: the flower remains inviting, but its sharp edges keep the mood alert rather than comforting.

How to wear

Start with one spray on the torso and assess before adding more; this forceful green floral benefits from restraint in shared spaces. Mild or cool weather is a sensible starting point for its dense leather-and-tuberose character. In warmth, use a lighter application to keep the floral intensity from dominating.

Who it’s for

For lovers of bitter greenery, leather textures and flowers stripped of sweetness. It will appeal to those who enjoy the assertive character of old-school perfumery but want tuberose recast as something angular, sap-like and experimental rather than plush or conventionally seductive.

Release year

2017

The nose

Isabelle Doyen is known for her long creative association with Annick Goutal and for compositions that give familiar flowers unexpected depth and texture. Her work ranges from delicately observed botanical impressions to more experimental constructions. In Nuit de Bakélite, she pushes tuberose towards its green, sap-like character rather than its customary creamy richness.

Collaborators

Naomi Goodsir and co-founder Renaud Coutaudier developed the unconventional tuberose brief with Isabelle Doyen and helped steer the composition towards its sharper green direction. Goodsir’s Bakelite bracelets informed the material association behind the name; she also requested a higher concentration during the final development stage.

Naomi Goodsir’s story

Naomi Goodsir treats perfume as an invisible accessory with tangible texture, extending the designer’s interest in materials and sculptural form. The house works with independent perfumers on genderless compositions built around distinctive raw materials, releasing fragrances when the creative idea is ready rather than following a fixed market rhythm.

Nuit de Bakélite’s concept

Development began with two contrasting visions of tuberose: a creamy floral interpretation and a sharper study of the plant’s sap. The green direction prevailed, focusing on the stalk and barely opening flower. The name preceded the perfume, linking Goodsir’s Bakelite jewellery with tuberose’s latex-like freshness and giving the composition its unusual botanical-material tension.

Extra info

Nuit de Bakélite received three awards in 2018: the French FiFi Experts’ Award for Best Niche & Independent Brand Fragrance, an Art and Olfaction Award in the Independent category, and Olfactorama’s Prix de l’émotion. Its name was already in place before the perfume itself was composed.