Perfumes Luca Turin Loved. 2020 Edit theme

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The perfumes featured below have been mentioned by Luca Turin in the several editions of his Perfumes: the Guide and his blog. These perfumes are varied and are worth trying for being unusual and groundbreaking, or featuring some exceptional materials or just for being examples of old-school craft.

Vi et Armis Beaufort Vi et Armis (Latin): by force and arms

"Vi Et Armis smells like an alchemist’s Christmas party: a dark, rich, swirling combination of peat fire and flambé spice pudding, with some cough syrup and fence paint thrown in for hygiene. I have long wished for a fragrance like this one, and am impressed that such a sweet spot could be found in what is otherwise forbiddingly medicinal territory. Vi Et Armis arises from a combination of single-minded art direction and great technical skill."

Iris Cendré Naomi Goodsir A noteworthy orris leather perfume

Le Mat Mendittorosa 5 Stars!

Jasmin et Cigarette Etat Libre d'Orange They don't make perfumes like that anymore

MAAI Bogue Profumo Maai /Italian/ “nee-ver!”

"I cannot overstate the joy that smelling something like this provides. It’s like sitting in the front row at the Vienna Philharmonic after listening to two months’ worth of ringtones: the sound is so glorious you don’t care if they play Die Fledermaus. And Maai is far better than that even, a big-boned, animalic woody chypre seemingly laden with every magnificent material we knew and loved before the End of History set in: musks, oakmoss, eucalyptus, cedar, bergamot, patchouli, sandalwood, jasmine, ylang, rose, tuberose, etc."

T-Rex Zoologist 'Empyreumatic niche' according to Mr Turin

"[perfumer] wanted to use a lot of patchouli without anyone noticing, so he added equal amounts of other materials, among which cade wood and a lustrous, metallic rose material until —to my mind— he achieved a sort of anthracite, i.e. what happens to vegetal matter when subjected to enormous pressures and temperatures."

Tobacco Tuberose Anna Zworykina Tuberose and lavender

"As in the brilliant Twilly d’Hermès, tuberose here subs in for the lavender in a traditionally masculine coumarin context, to excellent effect. Though Zworykina’s stated guiding principle is a perfumery of entirely natural materials, it somehow smells pleasurably of photocopier machines. ts"

Ormonde Woman Ormonde Jayne 5 stars for magic forest illusion

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