Best Le Participe Passé by Serge Lutens Alternatives & Similar Perfumes

Aragon is an olfactory tribute to the Aragon region of Spain, the birthplace of Mallo. A unique aromatic fougere, the scent showcases local aromatic plant extracts from cypress, basil, thyme, rosemary and artemisia. Added to this busy mix is the pipirigallo flower, exclusive to the region. The scent is rounded off by mossy, resinous elements for a warm, enveloping feel.

The third volume in the Revenants series takes inspiration from the works of architect Nicolas Hawksmoor (1661-1736) whose foreboding structures define London's urban landscape even today.

Hawksmoor - referred to as ‘the Devil’s architect’ - continues to provoke interest for his distinctive churches, which introduced elements of Egyptology into traditional ecclesiastical settings. These curious architectural details, and his recent reputation as a Freemason has prompted speculation that occult symbolism influenced his methods, and imbued his designs with an inherent ‘terror and magnificence’.

By contrasting darkness with invigorating complexity, perfumer Pia Long has combined a vivid olfactory impression of the man, his works and his myth. Accords of Somalian Incense, dry woods and wet stone meld with opium smoke, papyrus and kyphi, underpinned by a base of Haitian vetiver and precious resins. 

The product’s packaging bears a representation of Hawksmoor’s celebrated work – Christ Church Spitalfields in East London.

Misty Cypress Ash captures a mountain landscape with swirls of smoke rising from smoldering cypress branches amid the forest mist. Opens with an herbaceous, slightly bitter green haze of absinthe and wormwood, transitioning into a warm, spicy and woody heart of cypress and rich tobacco. Finally it settles into a comfortable, earthy and mineral-smoky finish with rooty vetiver and austere cedar.

Perfumer: Yang Liu

Perfumer: Nicolas Beaulieu

Conjuring the complexity of iced absinthe where the balance of heady wormwood and fresh ozonic greenery surrounds violet leaf for a seductive euphoric tone. This is set against a dark aromatic base that is smooth and warming. The head-turning diffusion of sweetened leathers and earthy woods offers a contemporary enticing edge.

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An intense, smoky herbal blend that, like all of Anna's creations, will transport you to an imaginary landscape.

It's inspired by Cossacks, the soldier-farmers who live in the steppes in the south of Russia, accomplished horsemen guarding the borders since the days of Catherine the Great.

You are welcome to devise your own story, but here at Bloom, we imagine a young Cossack resting among haystacks and wild herbs, smoking his clay pipe while contemplating the starry sky. His friends are sitting by the open fire nearby. Smoke is wafting through wild thyme and wormwood.

Starring

(these fragrant materials reanacted the Young Cossack story):

galbanum CO2 extract
artemisia annia essential oil
artemisia absinthium essential oil
immortel absolute
Seville lavender abs
thyme essential oil
tarragon essential oil
davana essential oil
guayak wood essential oil.
rose de May absolute
Morrocan rose  absolute
cumin CO2 extract
frankincense absolute
petitgrain essential oil
geranium leaves absolute
myrth essential oil
costus absolute
oakmoss absolute
patchouli essential oil
labdanum absolute
tabacco absolute
tonka bean absolute
agarwood essential oil
vetiver essential oil
castoreum tinctura

Important notice:

Anna Zworykina’s blends are olfactive smellscapes (but neither aromatherapy, nor ‘spray-and-go’ perfumes). Her blends are sensory experiences, closer to works of art created in the scented plane (rather than, say, visual or audio).

Certain essential oils and absolutes that are used in her 100% natural perfumes may potentially cause allergies in some people. Please spray Anna Zworykina’s blends on fabric (on sleeves, scarves, etc.). This said, Anna Zworykina has acquired a huge fan base over many years and people interacted with her blends for quite a while now. We are not aware of any reports of any skin reactions so far.

However, Anna advises that those who are prone to allergic reactions, pregnant and nursing women, as well as people with chronic illnesses to be extra careful. Before trying natural blends, study the list of ingredients and consult with a doctor if you are not sure or a had a history of allergies. If you do decide to put these blends on your skin (unable to resist the temptation) always test the blend on the inside part of your elbow first and wait.

Do not spray these blends liberally as a cloud in the way you would spray a conventional perfume. Anna’s smellscapes need to be… carefully applied and experienced. Be mindful that some oils can also make your skin hyper-sensitive to UV.

Perfumer: Chris Maurice

A smell-good-like-you-feel-good perfume, reminiscent of carefree hangouts with friends powered by “herbal inhalants”. Mainstream is a beautifully modulated cannabis fragrance, its grapefruit and lime kick-off nicely balanced by the long guaiac wood, patchouli and vetiver fadeout. 

Circa 1900, the cook for the governor of Queensland was in a jam. Asked to rustle up a dessert for last-minute guests, he improvised by cutting up day-old vanilla sponge into squares, then rolling them in chocolate and coconut. The guests were impressed, and “Lord Lamington” went from being a governor to an Australian culinary tradition, and now to a perfume. This edp features the treat’s strawberry, cream, coconut and chocolate, tempered by the crisp aromatics of bergamot and clary sage. The amber drydown lets you know you’re wearing a perfume and not a cake.

Wet’n’wild, this perfume elevates the comforting smell of damp earth with the spicy sparkle of wormwood. Warm woods intertwine with smoky vetiver for a hallucinogenic blitz of green.

“In rifleing the closet of the ladie, they found a pipe of oyntement, wherewith she greased a staffe, upon which she ambled and galloped through thick and thin, when and in what manner she listed”
– Proceedings Against Dame Alice Kyteler, Prosecuted for Sorcery, 1324

Hexensalbe, also known as witches’ flying ointment, was a hallucinogenic salve used in witchcraft in the middle ages. It was a mixture of extremely poisonous ingredients that produced an ecstatic trance with powerful sensations of flying, images of otherworldly creatures and a primal sexual hunger. 

But where did the witches’ broomstick come in? The ointment was too poisonous to eat, so instead it was applied to other soft membranes, commonly the genitals. Because of the erotic effects of the high, the salve would often be rubbed directly onto a phallic object like the end of a staff or a broomstick. (Now that’s what we call “riding a broomstick”!)

Given which aspects of the history of hexensalbe have been suppressed, it would seem that the one thing more terrifying than witches is female sexuality. This fragrance celebrates the forbidden rituals of personal power, summoning the ancient ways with dark aromatics: wormwood, liquorice, belladonna and black hemlock. Voluptuous tuberose and vibrant patchouli ensure a long and blissful trip.

An exclusive project for Bloom, dedicated to Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson’s adventures.

Hold my Pipe has notes of peat from the Grimpen Mire, the smoke of the Baskerville hall grand fireplace, Lestrade's smoking gun, the fruity tobacco blend from Sherlock’s pipe, sweet opium fumes, Tokay wine, spices from the Andaman islands and more. 

Starring

(these fragrant materials reanacted the Hold my Pipe story):

Labdanum absolute,
Osmanthus absolute,
Tonka bean absolute,
Peru balsam absolute
tobacco absolute
Oakmoss absolute,
Cardamom absolute,
Ylang-ylang absolute,
African artemisia  essential oil,
Vetiver essential oil, thyme essential oil,
Nagarmotha essential oil,
Pine tar essential oil,
Guayak wood essential oil,
Clove essential oil.